DISCOVERING IRELAND’S HEART AND SOUL
On this wonderful trip to The Emerald Island we flew from Cleveland to Shannon, Ireland, where we joined a CIE tour called The Ireland South Day Tripper. After checking in at the historic 18th-century family-run Dunraven Arms Hotel in Adare, we headed into town. Known as one of the prettiest towns in Ireland, Adare would be our home for the next five nights as we branched out to explore all the region’s highlights.
That first evening, we found a lively spot for dinner—Aunty Lena’s Pub & Grill—where we enjoyed our first Irish meal of fish and chips. Of course, Bruce picked up a “Paddy Hat,” perfect for golfing in Ireland. The pub had even won the award for Best Irish Pub of the Year in 2023.
Our first full day of touring began with rain, but soon the sun broke through and a rainbow appeared. We wandered past charming, thatched cottages, ancient churches, and historic buildings constructed in the early 19th century by the Earl of Dunraven. Later we dined at Fitzgerald’s Woodland House Hotel, meeting others in our group and chatting about plans for the week ahead.
The next morning, we set out for the Cliffs of Moher. There, we felt the fury of the North Atlantic as we braced ourselves against the 50 to 60 mph winds. Driving onward through the Burren, we were captivated by its stark cliffs, caves, and rare plant life. After lunch, we watched skilled border collies herd sheep with remarkable precision. That evening we enjoyed a hearty traditional Irish pork stew—delicious!
The following day began with a visit to Brian De Staic, Ireland’s finest goldsmith, in Dingle. Bruce gifted me a stunning pendant, an alphabet stone engraved with my name in Ogham. We explored the scenic Dingle Peninsula which revealed its rugged mountains and dramatic coastline, then followed with lunch at Paul Geaney’s gastropub. Arriving at the South Pole Inn in Annascaul, over Baileys Coffee, we enjoyed listening to amazing stories about the Inn’s past owner, Thomas Crean, who was an Antarctic explorer.
The next morning’s outing took us by scenic rail from Cork to Cobh. Its picturesque harbor was the last sight of Ireland for millions of emigrants over the centuries. We also learned about Cobh’s connection to the Titanic and the tragic sinking of the Lusitania during World War I. From there, we traveled to Blarney Castle, strolling through beautiful gardens, browsing the shops, as some of the group kissed the Blarney Stone for the “gift of eloquence.”
Day seven featured the much-anticipated Ring of Kerry. Unfortunately, fog obscured much of the coastline, but we still enjoyed shopping at Moriarty’s before continuing on to Killarney. There, we took a “jaunting car,” a horse-drawn cart, through the national park. Despite the pouring rain, we glimpsed Ross Castle and several lakes before escaping to a warm, dry pub called Hannigan’s.
Next, we headed to Dublin, where we had some of our favorite experiences. We started with lunch (more eating!) and lively entertainment at Three Rock. Later, we toured and tasted at the Guinness Storehouse—complete with a full pint. Dinner that evening was at Copper Alley Bistro, known for its excellent burgers.
After a week of early mornings, we took things slower the next day. We enjoyed brunch at the Cheeky Piglet before hopping on a city bus tour. Then came the Jameson Distillery Bow Street tour and tasting, a far better experience than the Guinness tour, we agreed, and we discovered a new favorite drink: Jameson and ginger ale.
Finally, a direct Aer Lingus flight carried us safely home to Cleveland.
