My first trip to Africa was to Tanzania in 2008. Randy and I marveled at our close encounters with the amazing array of wildlife—the “Big 5” of lion, elephant, caped buffalo, rhino and leopard–and so much more.
In August, 2024, I returned from my sixth trip! Each has been different, filled with intimate, breathtaking moments in South Africa, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia and Kenya. Currently I’m sketching out a visit to Rwanda and Uganda for gorilla encounters in 2025.
My daughter and I booked 20 safari nights this summer to South Africa, Zimbabwe and Kenya. It seemed a lot during planning, and it was. Regan could have done more but I started fading near the end.
This was our first time to Kenya, our primary target in order to catch the great migration. We’ve seen the mind- boggling 1.5 million wildebeests and 200,000 zebras straggling in near single file in Tanzania. They wander clockwise, following the rains and grass. Around July-September is when they usually cross into Kenya, braving the crocodile-infested Mara River and the safer Sand River.
Despite one week of driving back and forth, looking, chasing, waiting, waiting, waiting, we never caught any of the wildebeest migration crossing a river! Once we waited two hours as an indecisive group finally near the water’s edge…then, something spooked them and they all ran back up the hill!
It was an aggravating, exhausting experience. The befuddled, jittery beasts are in splintered groups, going one way, then another, taking long feeding breaks, then getting startled by the many jeeps tracking them, ending up further away from the river than before. (I should note that the guide for our first three nights seemed a little confused, saying to us when we arrived, “The migration finished two weeks ago.” We should have asked for another guide right then.)
On a solo drive, Regan did see a mini-crossing of a few dozen wildebeest, confronted by angry hippos, slipping in the rocky water, chased by crocodiles. A frantic mom and calf made it across and we saw them the next morning, having survived overnight.
Other highlights from this trip:
1. A remarkable pride of 26 lions near Kruger, including a rare white lion and a white cub. They were gnawing away at a hippo; the next day, we walked with them as they sauntered to the waterhole to wash down their feast. This is the largest pride we’ve ever seen.
2. Two pairs of leopards mating at Sabi Sands, near Kruger, in one day! These gorgeous creatures are reclusive and solitary, so it was thrilling to have front row seats to their procreation. They mate in very short bursts initiated by the female over 2-3 days. In all, we saw 11 leopards, including three in the distance.
3. Our first ever successful live hunt and kill, by Nora the cheetah at Masai Mara in Kenya. We watched with bated breaths as she stalked on her tiptoes for nearly two minutes before leaping after a male gazelle. The chase lasted only about 10 seconds. We agreed it was mesmerizing, exhilarating, tense, graceful, efficient, startling, sad, disturbing—all at once.
4. Walking among elephants at Somalisa in Zimbabwe! They offer an “approach” walk with an armed guide, allowing you to quietly walk very, very close to bull elephants. They are way bigger and more imposing when you’re on their turf!
5. On our fourth visit to a wild dog den in Sabi Sands, 10 precious cubs finally emerged, scratching, playing, and eating regurgitate scraps from adults returning from a fresh kill. In all of Africa, it’s estimated there are less than 7,000 wild dogs or painted dogs left, so this was a real treat.
6. We enjoyed two lion moms, seven cubs and one young adult snuggling, frolicking and suckling on our last morning at Somalisa in Zimbabwe. The moms are daughters of famed Cecil, killed in 2015 by bow and arrow by an American dentist who had a big game hunting permit and was never charged.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Tjkwm2wDUwZSVAvB8
7. Finally: We were fascinated by a standoff between a pride of nine lions and hyenas in Kenya. A baby hyena got close to a young lion, leading to a scuffle between the lion and an adult hyena. The hyenas then whooped for reinforcements while the pride rudely took over the hyena den, peeing all over it to mark it! The impasse eventually ended when the lions moved along.
Our tips for safari dreamers:
• Go sooner rather than later, as it’s a long, hard journey, and getting more costly every year.
• Target Sabi Sands, South Africa, and the Serengeti in Tanzania for your first trip.
• Make sure to mix in “off road” camps as you must stay on the road in most national parks.
